A perfect blend of past and present, Kyoto is a beautiful, charming city with plenty of traditional, pre-war buildings. With a population of almost 1.5 million, Kyoto is one of the largest cities in Japan, and as the capital city of the country for over a thousand years until 1868, is also one that has much historical significance.

The first time I visited Kyoto, it was a day trip from Osaka, so we barely had any time to walk around and explore before we had to rush to the station to take the train back. This time, I’d arrived in Kyoto from Osaka with two of my childhood friends – the second stop on our grad trip across Japan – and we had three days to drink in its sights, food, and culture.

Having just read the spellbinding Memoirs of a Geisha on the long, entertainment-less budget flight to Japan, I was eager to revisit the city, follow the footsteps of Sayuri, and take in the Gion district with my own eyes.

 

WHAT TO EAT

I’ve talked about my love for authentic Japanese food in the Osaka post, and I’ll rave about the food again here, because if anything, Kyoto really raised the bar. Doing some research beforehand really paid off, because we were promptly rewarded with some divine gastronomic experiences.

Katsukura Kyoto
Where: Kyoto Station, The CUBE, 11F

This place is famous for its tonkatsu, and it’s really bloody good. We ordered the ‘limited quantity’ Kyotamba premium pork which costs upwards of 2,080 yen for 120g, as well as the cheaper normal tonkatsu loin cutlet, 1,560 yen for 120g, to taste the difference. Both sets came with barley rice, miso soup, and pickled vegetables.

One bite of each was enough for the three of us to unanimously agree that 1) there is a huge difference and 2) the premium pork is well worth the higher price, so just go straight to it. The premium pork cutlet was melt-in-your-mouth kind of tender, juicy, and enveloped in a protective embrace of deep-fried, golden crisps. The normal one was just as crispy, but a little drier and not as tender, and once you’ve tasted such goodness, it’s just hard to go back. Katsukura also has wagyu beef tenderloin cutlets, but at 5,500 yen, it was way too expensive for us. I’m definitely going back to try that when I have more money.

Kinbe Sushi
Where: Daikokucho (Rokkakudori), Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, Kyoto Prefecture 604-8073, Japan

We stumbled upon this hidden gem while hunting for an authentic sushi place for dinner, and I think it remains one of my all-time favorite meals in Japan. Kinbe is housed in a traditional building with paper screens just behind Mina Kyoto, a shopping mall with Uniqlo and Loft. We pried the doors open just a little to take a peek and were satisfied with the decent crowd in the restaurant, so we went in.

 Eating in Japan is always an interesting experience. At one end of the spectrum, you have the automated ticket vending machines and individual booths of Ichiran, where you can pretty much have a meal without needing to speak a single word. At the other end, you have these more traditional restaurants like Kinbe, where the human aspect of interacting with the chefs isn’t just necessary, it’s what ties the entire meal together and keeps customers coming back again and again.

The sushi chef skilfully prepared our orders of grilled eel, salmon belly, tuna belly, and a whole assortment of other raw fish that we very excitedly pointed out from the menu, gingerly placing them on the countertop right in front of each of us.

It was so good. I’ve never been a fan of maguro – the ones I’ve had have always been sort of hard, chewy, and with a strong fishy smell. But otoro, the Kobe beef of the sea, is soft, almost creamy, with fat that melts in your mouth and without any of that fishy smell I’d associated with tuna. I’m a believer. As a rather picky eater, I tend to get quite trigger-happy with ordering when I finally find food that I truly enjoy eating, and would’ve happily handed over a few meals’ worth of yen for more of that fatty otoro goodness.

gram cafe
Where: Japan, 〒604-8033 Kyōto-fu, Kyōto-shi, Nakagyō-ku, Narayachō, 蛸薬師下る 奈良屋町302東側幸楽ビル2F Kawaramachi Dori

These famous premium soufflé pancakes from gram are only released three times a day (11am, 3pm, and 6pm), and they’re limited to just twenty orders each time. Thankfully we didn’t have to wait long to score one at the Kyoto branch – we joined the queue about twenty minutes before the 11am slot and were one of the first few in line.

These fluffy, stacked pancakes are surprisingly filling, and taste quite different from the typical thin, dense pancakes. Eaten on its own, there’s a slightly eggy taste, so I preferred eating it with the whipped cream and syrup. Despite hearing lots of rave reviews, I’m not a fan of the airy, squishy texture for pancakes. Still, it’s a matter of personal preference, and it was pretty fun getting the pancakes to wobble around for a video.

[Bonus] McDonald’s

The McDonald’s menu in every country is localized to suit the unique tastes and preferences of the people, and the Shaka Shaka Chicken from the Japanese outlets is possibly my favorite snack ever. It’s only 150 yen, but it’s amazing.

What you see is what you get – a palm-sized deep-fried chicken cutlet that’s crispy on the outside and an explosion of juiciness and tenderness once you bite into it. It comes with a packet of seasoning (I always get the cheddar cheese so I’m not sure what else they have). You pour that over the chicken and shake the bag vigorously so that the chicken is evenly coated in cheese powder. BEST LATE-NIGHT SNACK EVER. I think I bought it almost every time we passed by the McDonald’s on our way back to the hostel.

[Bonus] Kichi Kichi Omurice
Where: 185-4 Zaimokuchō, Nakagyō-ku, Kyōto-shi, Kyōto-fu 604-8017, Japan

I’m torn about including this in this list because we didn’t actually get to try it. Caught up with all the planning of logistics for the trip, we didn’t make any reservations, so we just stood in front of the store and made sad faces. But Kichi Kichi Omurice is world-famous for the chef’s unique presentation and for being the ‘best omurice in Kyoto’, so if you’re able to make a reservation in advance, why not check it out?

 

WHAT TO SEE

Fushimi Inari Taisha
Where: 68 Fukakusa Yabunouchichō, Fushimi-ku, Kyōto-shi, Kyōto-fu 612-0882, Japan

This is one of two places that will definitely come to mind when you think of Kyoto, the other being the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove. The Fushimi Inari Taisha is dedicated to Inari, the god of rice in Shinto religion, and each of the striking vermillion torii gates was donated by a Japanese business. Collectively, the thousands of gates frame the 4km path to the top of the mountain, 233m above sea level.

The starting area is the most crowded, with tourists all jostling to get a photo with the gates. Just walk past them until the crowd thins out, and with some patience, you’ll eventually get to a stretch where you can take photos without having other people in them. Once that’s done, you can turn back and head off to your next destination.

If you’re just casually visiting, my strong recommendation is to not climb up to the summit, because there’s not much of a vantage point for a good view of the city. The flat path quickly becomes steep with many long stretches of staircases, and the opportunity cost in terms of time and effort is too high since there’s so much more to see in Kyoto. If you still want to take up the challenge though, don’t be like me – don’t wear tight, thick movement-restricting jeans, and make sure you wear proper sports shoes.

Still, lagging behind my more athletic friends, we made it to the top so you can see what the view is like.

Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Where: Sagatenryuji Susukinobabacho, Ukyō-ku, Kyoto, Kyoto Prefecture 616-8385, Japan

The Arashiyama area is beautiful, and you can easily spend a full day wandering around. The path through the natural bamboo grove is actually not as long as one would expect, but it is quite flat and wide, making it more accessible and a much easier and shorter stroll compared to the Fushimi Inari Taisha.

Turn your eyes towards the sky and marvel at the heights that these bamboo stalks reach. Personally, I really enjoyed the peaceful experience of walking through the Arashiyama bamboo grove and the surrounding mountainous areas (imagine how beautiful they’d look in autumn!), and would definitely return again.

Arashiyama Monkey Park Iwatayama
Where: Japan, 〒616-0004 Kyoto Prefecture, Kyoto, Nishikyo Ward, 中尾下町61

In the same area of Arashiyama is the Monkey Park Iwatayama, where over 170 wild snow monkeys roam free. Most of the monkeys would be concentrated at the summit, 160m above sea level, so there’s quite a distance to walk before you reach the main part of the park. You can purchase little snacks to feed the monkeys through the wire mesh in the hut, but you’re not supposed to touch or stare directly at the monkeys. For 550 yen per person, it’s quite a fun experience, and the monkeys are really fluffy and cute!

Kiyomizu-dera Temple
Where: 294 Kiyomizu 1-chōme, Higashiyama-ku, Kyōto-shi, Kyōto-fu 605-0862, Japan

With so many temples to choose from in Kyoto, we eventually decided on the Kiyomizu-dera, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Kiyomizu, or ‘clear water’, refers to the waterfall within the complex. Just getting to Kiyomizu-dera is an experience in itself – one has to join the crowd and walk uphill along Gojo-zaka, a narrow pedestrian street lined with touristy shops on both sides.

Unfortunately, the roof of the main hall was under renovation, so with most of the facade boarded up until March 2020, it didn’t make for a great photo. Instead, we walked around outside and found a few colorful pagodas to take photos with, our favorite being the quieter Koyasu Pagoda (below), a distance away from the bustling crowds.

WHAT TO DO

Visit the Nishiki Market
Where: Japan, 〒604-8054 Kyōto-fu, Kyōto-shi, Nakagyō-ku, Higashiuoyachō, 富小路通四条上る西大文字町609番地

The Nishiki market is a must-visit for traditional food when in Kyoto, and unlike the Kuromon market in Osaka, it’s a lot more fun to walk down, with plenty of street food to fill your stomach with. It’s long and narrow, spanning about five blocks, with over a hundred shops selling food and other goods.

We had a taste of almost everything – grilled unagi and prawns, scallops, takoyaki, tako tamago… We also found that the street vendors were really friendly, offering us plenty of samples to try. All in all, a great experience.

Walk down Pontocho Alley at night
Where: Japan, 〒604-8016 Kyōto-fu, Kyōto-shi, Nakagyō-ku, Nabeyachō, 下樵木町１９６−１

Moody and mysterious, Pontocho is a narrow alley that runs from Shijo-dori to Sanjo-dori, and it only really comes alive at night. It’s also known as one of the best places for geisha spotting due to the number of exclusive teahouses in the area, so do keep your eyes open.

While the other parts of Kyoto might still feel like modern Japan, Pontocho was my favorite part of the city because of the atmosphere. With the dark alley gently illuminated by the yellow glow of the lanterns, it really feels like you’ve stepped through a portal into another world. I only wish I had a better camera that could more accurately capture the atmosphere of the place.

Relax and take a walk along the Katsura River
Where: Arashiyama Park Nakanoshima Area (Saganakanoshimacho, Ukyō-ku, Kyoto, Kyoto Prefecture 616-8383, Japan)

We somehow stumbled upon this little hut by the river and ended up eating lunch here, sitting on these little cushions and eating from the tiny wooden table. A gentle breeze came in from the river, and it made slurping down our bowls of hot udon even more satisfying in the chilly weather. Across the slightly murky water, a small mountain of trees added to the illusion that we were having our lunch in the middle of the forest.

I loved it.

There’s so much to take in when in Kyoto that three days doesn’t feel like enough, and I was a little sad to leave. Still, we accomplished quite a good deal, and even managed to squeeze in a little half-day detour to the nearby Lake Biwa, so I think we did pretty well with our time in the city. Till next time!

Do you have any other recommendations for Kyoto? Let me know in the comments below!

To watch a video of our trip to Japan covering Osaka, Kyoto, Mt Fuji, and Tokyo, click here.