The Ancient Town of Hoi An – delightfully colorful in the day, and downright captivating at night. Once known as Faifo, the old town of Hoi An still has influences from the Cham, the Chinese, and the Vietnamese from its time as an important Southeast Asian trading port in the 16th and 17th centuries.
This beautiful UNESCO World Heritage Site is well worth at least a day’s visit, but be warned – it won’t be an idyllic getaway from the hustle and bustle of the city. As daylight fades and the night markets come to life, the crowds start pouring in, and part of Hoi An’s charm is lost to the inevitable sea of people. Still, by day or by night, the ancient town of Hoi An is a magical experience that one should not miss out on when in Central Vietnam. Here’s what you can eat, see, and do in one day in Hoi An.
Getting There
Hoi An has no airports or trains, so the best way to access it is by road. We took an international flight to Da Nang, which was our base for the Vietnam trip. From Da Nang, the most straightforward and comfortable way to get to Hoi An is via Grab (download the app and create an account before arriving in Vietnam), and should take about 45min. For more travel options, check out this WikiTravel guide.
You’ll have to alight just outside the Old Town and make your way in on foot, as the Old Town of Hoi An has narrow streets and is mainly pedestrianized. You’ll only need to purchase an admission ticket (120,000 dong) if you’re looking to enter the museums and cultural attractions. We gave this a miss – with only one day in Hoi An, our focus was on walking the streets and taking in the sights.
What to See
Hoi An’s Ancient Town is very postcard-worthy. Most of the houses are painted in the same shade of yellow that gives Hoi An much of its charm. Whether it’s because yellow symbolizes royalty, or because the light color absorbs less heat (very important, as the heat in the tropical climate can be unbearable), the ubiquitous yellow walls make for the perfect backdrop wherever you go.
The yellow city of Hoi An reminds me of the striking yellow and red Pena Palace of Sintra in Portugal, and of the colorful houses of Cinque Terre in Italy. Perhaps there’s some link that I’ve yet to discover.
My favorite thing to do in a new city is simply to wander around (hence, a girl must wander, heh) and explore on foot so that I can stop to take photos and buy things wherever I want. If that’s you as well, you’ll probably enjoy how much Hoi An’s ancient town has to offer. Just watch out for groups of trishaws passing by when you’re taking photos.
One of the main attractions is the Japanese Bridge. This 18th century wooden bridge was supposedly created by the Japanese living in Hoi An for easier access to the Chinese quarter. While you’ll need the above-mentioned admission ticket to enter the museum that’s directly linked to the Japanese Bridge, photos of the iconic bridge are free.
Head back here at night, as the lights transform the bridge and make it even prettier.
What to Do
In terms of shopping, there are plenty of shops for you to pick from. Rattan bags, printed clothes and pointed straw hats are popular, along with bags and other accessories. For high quality (and much pricier) souvenirs, check out the beautifully decorated Sunday in Hoi An. The heart wants to buy the whole shop, but the wallet says I can only afford to look.
When you get tired of walking, take a break in one of the many cafés in Hoi An Ancient Town, and be blown away by the intensity of Vietnamese coffee. Typically made with Robusta beans instead of Arabica beans, Vietnamese coffee is stronger and more bitter than what you might be used to. It’s also very sweet, as sweetened condensed milk is used.
Coconut coffee is a must-try, and they actually go together quite well. We went to the famous Cong Ca Phe, recognizable by its Viet Cong-themed design. Business here is so good that the café mass produces their ice blended coconut coffee to cater to the waves of customers. We also tried the hot version of the coconut coffee, and it’s not as sweet as the iced version.
Other highly rated cafés you can check out include Faifo Coffee, Cocobox, Hoi An Roastery, and Cabanon Cofee.
In the evening, cross the Thu Bon river via the Bridge of Lights. It might get quite jammed with people as this is the closest one of three bridges that will get you across the river. You’ll spot lots of boats along the river, and it becomes quite magical when the lights come on after sunset.
Head to the Hoi An Night Market to do some final shopping. Prices in such touristy areas can be inflated, so you can and should bargain if possible. Many of the stalls sell similar items, so if you’re not happy with the prices, just walk further down.
At night, the lanterns hung up all over the city light up, and add to the magical atmosphere and distinctive charm of Hoi An. If you’re not in time to catch the famous Hoi An Lantern Festival on the 14th day of each lunar moon, you can still take a photo or purchase a lantern from one of the many eye-catching lantern shops at the start of the Hoi An Night Market. Do note that some of the shop owners may ask you to pay for photos with the lanterns. Look out for signs before you start snapping away!
What to Eat
In my research, the number one recommendation that I kept hearing over and over again for good and decently priced food in Hoi An was Morning Glory. To temper your expectations, I personally wouldn’t say that the food is amazingly good. Perhaps it really depends on what you order, but none of the dishes were particularly outstanding, and the portions were quite small. Most of the food actually looked better than it tasted.
However, given the ambiance and decor of the restaurant, that it’s situated in the old town and caters to tourists, and that it’s a one-stop-shop for regional and local street food specialties, it’s probably fair to say that it’s a good and safe introduction to Vietnamese cuisine.
We ordered the White Rose (banh bao banh vat) – dumpling made from translucent steamed rice flour, with ground shrimp fillings, for 85k dong.
The crispy pancake (banh xeo), 85k dong, with shrimp, pork, bean sprouts filling was crispy, but a little on the hard side.
We also had fried wontons with crabmeat (hoanh thanh chien) to share at 95k dong.
The Hoi An Sandwich (bahn my hoi an), 85k dong, was a baguette with roast pork fillings.
The fried spring rolls were the sole highlight of the meal for me. These were tasty and crispy.
As our focus for the day was mainly on sightseeing rather than food, we only ate one full meal in Hoi An. For potential food recommendations, Madame Khanh, Nu Eatery, and Mango Mango are quite highly rated dining options that I would’ve liked to check out.
Final Thoughts
Despite the insane weekend crowds and incessant touting, Hoi An’s Ancient Town remains one of the highlights of my trip to Central Vietnam. There are few places that I can wholeheartedly describe as beautiful, almost to the point of romantic. Hoi An has certainly been a pleasant surprise, and a definite addition to that list. I hope you’ll feel the magic of Hoi An, as I have.
For more magical places to visit, read about my adventures in Budapest, Hungary, and Sintra, Portugal.